Author: Andrew Harrington

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Your Orchid Just Arrived by Mail: What to Do First

There’s nothing quite like opening a box and finding a new orchid inside. But a few days in the dark, bumping along in a delivery truck, is a big change from the greenhouse it grew up in. Orchids are tougher than they look, and most bounce back quickly. What you do in the first week or two makes it much easier for your new plant to settle in.

The short version: unpack it gently, check it over, give it a good drink if needed, put it in a good spot, and then mostly leave it alone. Here’s how.

Open the Box Promptly

Bring the box indoors as soon as it’s delivered. Orchids don’t like sitting on a cold porch or in a hot mailbox, so the sooner it’s inside, the better. If the box feels cold to the touch, as it often will in late fall and winter, let it sit unopened at room temperature for an hour or so before unpacking. That lets the plant warm up gradually instead of going straight from chilly to warm.

Unpack Gently

Orchids are packed carefully to protect leaves, buds, and flowers in transit, so take your time getting
them out.

  • Cut tape and open the box rather than pulling the plant out by its leaves or stems.
  • Remove packing paper or padding a little at a time, especially around flower spikes and buds.
  • Keep the plant tag. It tells you exactly what you have, which helps when you look up care or want
    another one later.
  • Leave any stakes and clips that

Know What’s Normal After Shipping

Travel is stressful for any plant, and a little adjustment is expected. These are common and usually nothing to worry about:

  • A bud or two dropping: shifts in light and temperature can cause a few buds to fall in the first week or two.
  • Slightly limp or creased leaves: these typically firm up as the plant rehydrates and settles in.
  • A yellowing older leaf: the plant may shed its oldest leaf in response to the move.

What matters most is the newest growth. If the young leaves and growing points look firm and healthy, your orchid is in good shape.

Leave It in Its Pot

This is very important! It’s tempting to repot a new plant right away, or to slide it out of its pot just to have
a look. Resist the urge. Your orchid was potted by the grower in a mix and pot suited to it, and pulling it
out disturbs the roots and loosens the medium just when the plant is trying to recover from its trip. The
plant is already stressed and repotting right away just adds more stress and is one of the worst things
you can do.

If you’d like a decorative look, simply set the pot inside a slightly larger cachepot, and empty any water
that collects at the bottom. Save repotting for when the plant truly needs it, usually not for a year or more.

Water Only If It Needs It

Don’t water automatically just because the plant has arrived. Check the potting mix first. Push a wooden skewer or your finger into the mix, or simply lift the pot and feel its weight.

  • If the mix is dry and the pot feels light: water thoroughly in the morning, letting the excess drain completely.
  • If the mix is still damp: wait a few days and check again.

A plant that’s slightly dry will recover quickly. One that sits in soggy mix while it’s adjusting is more likely to have problems.

Choose a Spot and Ease Into Light

After several days in a dark box, even a sun-loving orchid needs a little time to adjust. Start it in bright, indirect light for the first week, then move it into its permanent spot.

A good long-term home will be:

  • Near a bright window that suits your orchid type (Phalaenopsis prefer gentler light, Cattleyas want more)
  • Away from heating and cooling vents, drafty doors, and cold window glass
  • Away from ripening fruit, which gives off ethylene gas that can cause buds and flowers to drop

Hold Off on Fertilizer and Give It Time

Wait about two weeks before you start fertilizing. A newly arrived plant needs to settle in first, and feeding
a stressed plant doesn’t help it recover any faster.

Once it’s settled, follow a regular routine of watering when the mix is nearly dry and feeding lightly with a
balanced orchid fertilizer every few weeks. Try not to move the plant from spot to spot looking for the
perfect place. Do your research first to determine the correct growing area before you order your orchid.
Steady conditions are what help a new orchid feel at home, and before long you’ll see fresh roots and
new growth.

Welcome Home

A little patience in the first few weeks goes a long way. Unpack gently, leave your orchid in its pot, water only when it needs it, and let it settle into a bright, steady spot. Your new plant will reward you with healthy growth and blooms for years to come.

Looking for your next orchid? Browse the selection at Odom’s Orchids, grown and shipped with care since 1952.

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Getting Your Cattleya to Rebloom

Few flowers can match a Cattleya in full bloom: large, ruffled, often fragrant, and impossible to ignore. It’s no wonder they’re called the queen of orchids. Getting that first bloom is easy, since most plants arrive in bud or flower. Getting the next one is where many growers get stuck.

The good news is that Cattleyas aren’t difficult. They simply follow a natural growth cycle, and reblooming comes down to giving them the right conditions at each stage, then letting them do their work.

Understand How Your Cattleya Grows

Cattleyas grow sideways, one new shoot at a time. Each new growth, called a lead, emerges from the base of the previous one and gradually matures into a thick, water-storing stem called a pseudobulb, topped with one or two leathery leaves.

As the pseudobulb matures, a flattened green sheath forms where the leaf meets the stem. That sheath protects the developing flower buds. Most Cattleyas bloom from the newest mature growth, usually once a year, though some hybrids bloom twice.

In other words, every bloom starts with a strong new growth. Healthy leads lead to healthy flowers.

Give Them Plenty of Light

Not enough light is the most common reason a Cattleya won’t rebloom. Cattleyas need considerably more light than Phalaenopsis. Indoors, a bright south- or east-facing window is ideal, with sheer curtains if midday summer sun is intense.

The leaves are your best light meter:

  • Light to medium green, slightly yellowish: about right
  • Dark green and lush: not enough light, and blooms are unlikely
  • Yellow, or with red-purple freckling: at the upper limit, so watch for scorching

If your plant looks beautiful but never flowers, move it closer to the brightest window you have.

Let the Nights Cool Down

Cattleyas like warm days, roughly 70 to 85°F, and noticeably cooler nights in the 55 to 65°F range. A nightly drop of 10 to 15 degrees helps the plant mature its growths and set buds.

In most homes, a spot near a window naturally runs a bit cooler at night. Keep plants away from heating vents, fireplaces, and appliances that hold the room at a steady temperature around the clock.

Water and Feed With the Seasons

Cattleyas store water in their pseudobulbs, so they prefer to dry out between waterings. Constantly wet mix is one of the fastest ways to set a plant back.

You don’t need to see the roots to know when to water. Lift the pot after a thorough watering to feel its weight, then lift it again every few days. When it feels noticeably lighter, it’s time. You can also push a wooden skewer into the mix and check whether it comes out damp.

  • During active growth (new leads forming): water thoroughly whenever the mix is nearly dry, and feed regularly with a balanced orchid fertilizer at half strength.
  • After growths mature and during the cooler months: water less often and cut back on fertilizer as growth slows.

Mildly wrinkled older pseudobulbs are normal. Firm, plump new growths are the ones that matter.

Be Patient With the Sheath

A sheath is a great sign, but it doesn’t mean flowers are days away. Depending on the variety, buds may push up within a few weeks or wait several months. Some Cattleyas hold a sheath through the winter and bloom in spring.

If the sheath turns tan or papery, don’t panic. Many plants still bloom from a dry sheath. Leave it in place, keep conditions steady, and resist the urge to move the plant around once buds begin to show.

Disturb Your Cattleya as Little as Possible

Cattleyas resent being disturbed. Every time a plant is pulled from its pot, some potting mix falls away and roots get bumped or broken, and the plant spends energy recovering instead of growing and blooming. That’s especially true for a plant that was recently repotted and hasn’t yet filled its pot with roots.

The best approach is to leave a healthy Cattleya alone. Repot only when it truly needs it, such as when new growths are climbing over the edge of the pot or the mix has broken down, and time it for when new roots are just starting to emerge from the newest growth. Between repottings, judge the plant by its leaves, pseudobulbs, and pot weight, not by digging into the pot.

Still No Blooms? Check These First

  • Dark green leaves: the plant needs more light.
  • No cool nights: move it away from heat sources or closer to a window.
  • Small, weak new growths: the plant needs another season of good light and feeding to build strength.
  • Recently repotted: give it time, since a disturbed plant often skips a bloom while it settles in.
  • Young plant: seedlings and small divisions may need a year or two to reach blooming size.

Enjoy the Queen of Orchids

With bright light, cool nights, seasonal watering, and a gentle hands-off approach, your Cattleya will reward you with spectacular blooms year after year. Ready to add another to your collection? Explore the Cattleyas at Odom’s Orchids, grown with care since 1952.

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Fall Orchid Care: How Cooler Nights Set Up Winter Blooms

As the days shorten and nights turn crisp, many orchid owners assume it’s time for their plants to slow down. In reality, fall is one of the most important seasons in an orchid’s year. The changes happening right now (shorter days, cooler evenings, softer light) are exactly the signals many orchids, phalaenopsis and cymbidiums in particular, need to start producing flower spikes. A few simple adjustments over the next several weeks can be the difference between a bare plant in January and a windowsill full of blooms.

Here’s how to help your orchids make the most of the season.

Let Your Orchids Feel the Temperature Drop

For the popular Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), a noticeable dip in nighttime temperature is the main trigger for a new flower spike. Aim for nights in the mid 50s to low 60s°F, roughly 10 to 15 degrees cooler than daytime, for three to four weeks. A spot near a window, away from heating vents, usually does the trick naturally.

Cymbidiums are even more dependent on cool fall nights. If yours spent the summer outdoors, you can often leave them out until nights approach the low 40s. That chill is what sets their buds.

Bring Outdoor Orchids In at the Right Time

If your orchids summered on a patio or porch, plan to move most of them indoors before nights consistently fall below about 50°F. Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Phalaenopsis all appreciate cool nights but don’t like a true cold snap.

Before bringing plants inside, take a few minutes to inspect them. Check leaves, pseudobulbs, and the undersides of pots for insects like mealybugs, scale, or slugs. A gentle rinse and a close look now can keep hitchhikers from spreading to the rest of your collection.

Give Them More Light, Not Less

As the sun sits lower in the sky, window light gets weaker and shorter. Orchids that were perfectly happy a few feet from a window in July may need to move right up to the glass in October. South- and east-facing windows are ideal this time of year.

Watch the leaves for cues. Healthy Phalaenopsis leaves should be a medium, grassy green. If they turn dark forest green, your plant probably wants more light.

Water Less Often

Cooler temperatures and shorter days mean slower growth and slower evaporation, so your orchids will need water less frequently than they did in summer. Overwatering is the most common cause of root rot in fall and winter.

The best rule of thumb: water when the potting medium is nearly dry, not on a fixed schedule. Stick a finger or a wooden skewer into the mix. If it comes out damp, wait a few more days. Always water in the morning so leaves and crowns can dry before the cooler night.

Watch Humidity as the Heat Turns On

Once your furnace kicks in, indoor humidity can drop fast, and orchids notice. Most prefer humidity between 40 and 60 percent. To boost moisture around your plants, try setting pots on a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water (keeping the pot above the waterline), grouping plants together, or running a small humidifier nearby.

Ease Up on Fertilizer

With growth slowing, your orchids don’t need as much food. Switch to feeding about half as often as you did in summer, and use a diluted, balanced orchid fertilizer. Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt buildup around the roots.

A few types, such as Dendrobium nobile hybrids, catasetum, and Cyrtopodium, actually prefer a cool, drier rest with little or no fertilizer in fall. That rest period is what encourages them to bloom in late winter.

Spot the Spike and Protect It

Keep an eye out over the coming weeks. A new Phalaenopsis flower spike usually emerges from between the lower leaves and looks like a small, mitten-shaped green or silvery root tip. Once you see one, avoid moving or rotating the plant too much, since the spike grows toward the light and changing its direction can cause twisted stems. When it’s a few inches tall, add a stake and clip it loosely as it grows.

Your Fall Orchid Checklist

To recap, this season you’ll want to: let nighttime temperatures drop 10 to 15 degrees, bring outdoor plants in before nights fall below 50°F, move orchids closer to the window, water only when the mix is nearly dry, add humidity once the heat is on, and cut back on fertilizer.

Grow Your Collection This Season

Fall is also a great time to add new orchids to your home. Plants that arrive now settle in just as their natural blooming cycle begins, giving you something to look forward to through the gray months ahead. Explore our selection of orchids, grown and shipped by Odom’s Orchids since 1962, and find your next favorite bloom.

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Orchid Care 101: Tips for Helping Your Orchid Thrive

Once you’ve got watering figured out, there’s a lot more that goes into helping an orchid truly thrive. Light, humidity, temperature, and a little patience all play a role in whether your orchid just survives or actually flourishes.

While every orchid variety has its own preferences, there are a few simple guidelines that can help any grower — beginner or experienced — get better results.

Give Your Orchid the Right Light

Orchids need bright, indirect light to bloom well, but direct sun can scorch their leaves.

An east-facing window is often ideal, giving gentle morning light without the harsh intensity of afternoon sun. If your orchid’s leaves are dark green, it may not be getting enough light. Leaves that are yellowish-green with a slight red tinge usually mean the light level is just right.

Rather than guessing, watch how your orchid responds and adjust its placement as needed.

Pay Attention to Humidity and Airflow

Most orchids come from humid, tropical environments, and many homes are simply too dry for them, especially during winter months.

A humidity tray, a small humidifier, or grouping plants together can help raise moisture levels around your orchid. At the same time, good airflow is just as important. Stagnant, overly humid air can encourage rot and fungal issues, so a gentle fan or well-ventilated spot can make a big difference.

Balancing humidity with airflow, rather than maximizing one at the expense of the other, is usually the better approach.

Keep Temperatures Consistent

Sudden swings in temperature can stress an orchid and interfere with blooming.

Most orchids prefer daytime temperatures in the 65-80°F range, with a slightly cooler drop at night. That gentle nighttime dip actually helps trigger blooming in many varieties. Keep orchids away from cold drafts, heating vents, and windows that get very cold at night.

Consistency matters more than hitting an exact number.

Fertilize Lightly and Regularly

Orchids don’t need heavy feeding, but a little fertilizer goes a long way during active growth.

A balanced, orchid-specific fertilizer applied at quarter strength every other week during spring and summer is generally a safe approach. Cut back in fall and winter when growth naturally slows.

Over-fertilizing is more likely to cause problems than underfertilizing, so when in doubt, use less.

Know When (and How) to Repot

Orchids typically need repotting every one to two years, not because they’ve outgrown their pot, but because their growing medium breaks down over time.

Signs it’s time to repot include roots growing out of the pot in large numbers, medium that stays soggy for too long, or a plant that seems unstable in its container. The best time to repot is right after blooming, when the plant is entering a new growth cycle.

Handle roots gently, and don’t be alarmed if a few need to be trimmed away if they’re mushy or dead.

Be Patient With Blooming

New orchid growers are often surprised that a healthy, well-cared-for orchid may still take months between bloom cycles.

This is completely normal. Focus on providing consistent light, water, humidity, and nutrition, and let the plant bloom on its own schedule rather than trying to force it.

Growing Orchids Is a Long-Term Relationship

Great orchid care isn’t about any single tip. It’s the combination of proper light, water, humidity, temperature, and patience over time.

At Odom’s Orchids, we’ve been growing orchids since 1952 and are happy to help growers of all experience levels find beautiful plants and learn how to care for them. Whether you’re adding your first orchid or expanding an established collection, we’re here to help your orchids flourish.

Looking to add another orchid to your collection? Shop orchids for sale online from Odom’s Orchids and explore our selection of beautiful orchids available for nationwide shipping.

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How to Water Orchids: A Beginner’s Guide

Proper watering is one of the most important parts of growing healthy, beautiful orchids. It’s also one of the
areas where new orchid growers tend to have the most questions. How often should you water an orchid?
How much water does it need? And how can you tell when it’s time to water again?

While the exact watering needs of an orchid can vary depending on the variety, growing medium,
temperature, humidity, and time of year, there are a few simple guidelines that can help you keep your
orchids thriving.

How Often Should You Water Orchids?

As a general rule, most orchids should be watered about once a week, although some may need water
slightly more or less frequently depending on their environment.

Rather than following a strict schedule, pay attention to the growing medium. Orchids generally prefer to dry out most of the way between waterings. If the potting medium is still damp, your orchid probably isn’t ready for more water.

During warmer months or periods of active growth, orchids may require more frequent watering. During cooler months, they may take longer to dry out.

Avoid Overwatering Your Orchid

One of the most common mistakes in orchid care is giving the plant too much water.

Orchid roots need both moisture and oxygen. When the growing medium remains constantly wet, the roots can begin to deteriorate and may eventually develop root rot.

Always make sure your orchid is planted in a container with adequate drainage. After watering, excess water should be able to flow freely from the pot rather than collecting around the roots.

Remember: orchids generally tolerate being slightly too dry better than being constantly wet.

The Best Way to Water an Orchid

When your orchid is ready for water, thoroughly wet the growing medium and allow the excess water to
drain completely.

Try to water the roots and growing medium rather than pouring water directly into the center of the plant. This is particularly important with Phalaenopsis orchids, where water can collect in the crown and potentially cause problems if it remains there.

After watering, return the orchid to a location with good air circulation and bright, filtered light.

Pay Attention to Your Orchid’s Roots

The roots can tell you quite a bit about your orchid’s condition.

Healthy orchid roots are typically firm rather than soft or mushy. Depending on the orchid and growing conditions, roots may appear green when hydrated and become lighter or silvery as they dry.

Learning to recognize these changes can make it much easier to determine when your orchid actually needs water instead of relying entirely on the calendar.

Your Growing Medium Makes a Difference

Not every orchid dries at the same rate.

Orchids planted in bark-based growing media may dry relatively quickly, while media that retain more moisture can stay damp considerably longer. Pot size, airflow, humidity, and the type of container can also affect how quickly an orchid dries.

This is why two orchids sitting next to each other may not always need to be watered at exactly the same time.

Adjust Your Watering With the Seasons

Your orchid’s watering requirements can change throughout the year.

Warmer temperatures, longer days, and active growth can cause an orchid to use water more quickly. During cooler periods or when growth slows, the growing medium may stay moist longer.

Get into the habit of checking your orchid before watering it rather than automatically reaching for the watering can on the same day every week.

Healthy Orchids Start With the Right Care

Growing orchids doesn’t have to be complicated. Once you learn to recognize when your plants need water,
maintaining a healthy collection becomes much easier.

At Odom’s Orchids, we’ve been growing orchids since 1952 and are happy to help growers of all experience levels find beautiful plants and learn how to care for them. Whether you’re adding your first orchid or expanding an established collection, proper watering, light, airflow, humidity, and nutrition will help your orchids flourish.

Looking to add another orchid to your collection? Shop orchids for sale online from Odom’s Orchids and explore our selection of beautiful orchids available for nationwide shipping.